arts & crafts

Bodies Out of Bounds

07.21.08 | permalink | Comment?

I don’t buy fashion magazines. Ever. Somehow, I was signed up for a free year-long subscription to Nylon Magazine against my will, and it only served to remind me once again how cheap, exploitative, and useless they really are.

When Conde Naste has to make a big, self-congratulatory goddamn deal out of actually daring to include black models on the typically ubiquitously white pages of Vogue, can anyone really take fashion rags seriously anymore? Even an attempt to rationalize their value as art and inspiration is disappointing; when art is so doggedly committed to defining such a singular aesthetic with this almost eugenic enthusiasm, it soars long past engaging into flat out irrelevant—how long can you listen to something that isn’t meant for you?



Fellow Uber blogger Eddie posted a link to photographer Erwin Olaf, pointing specifically to a series called Mature. It’s totally incredible, rewriting classic cheesecake pinup poses using women whose bodies fall far outside of what Anna Winteur might dictate to be worthy of being seen. Yet, each picture is stunning and playful and sexy, way more successfully than any of the source material it’s recalling—the element of surprise, of defiance and vitality, make these legitimately interesting studies in beauty.

What does it mean to subvert the aesthetic of sex appeal and come out with something even hotter? What does that suggest about the ways we construct beauty as a fantasy and then beauty as material reality? Fashion photography and journalism exist in this liminal space that implicitly hopes to guide its audience towards applying fantasy to their own realities; the aspirations of a fashion spread do not stop at inspiring you creatively, but go on by turning art into something consumable, tangible, and most importantly, buyable. So then it’s not just art, it’s the possibility of ‘real life.’ It’s a sales pitch.

Olaf draws upon the “real” of fantasy and the “real” of reality to reveal how fragile both can turn out to be. So if you’re still stuck believing that what you are at this very moment will never be as valuable as what you might be if you looked more like a fantasy gleaned from some fashion rag, you might want to rethink your position one more time; it’s all about how you imagine yourself to be.

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